image source: wlcutler

Heuchera ‘Midnight Rose’ is a  sport of  Heuchera ‘Obsidian’. This selection has the same deep black-purple leaves as ‘Obsidian’ but with bright pink variegation that emerges in spring. As the season progresses the variegation increases in surface area and then lightens to a pale creamy pink. As with all Heuchera they are easy to grow and fit well into any perennial planting. Low growing with a mounded habit.

I took this picture at the Oregon Garden in Silverton, Oregon. If you ever have a chance to tour the Oregon Garden take the opportunity.

Join Dr. Michael A. Dirr at the 2011 National Green Centre, Jan 9-10 in St. Louis, MO, as he unveils Dirr’s Tree and Shrub Finder. See it on the runway of the Sweet Melissa Fashion Show: the trendiest new plants (and iPhone apps!) in horticulture. Find out more about the unveiling of the app for iPhone at www.nationalgreencentre.org.

Based on Dirr’s classic work, The Manual of Woody Landscape Plants, Dirr’s Tree and Shrub Finder (Timber Press, Dec. 2010, $9.99) offers the latest and most reliable information on woody landscape plants for the landscape professional and the home gardener alike in an inexpensive and accessible format. Ideal for landscape designers, horticulture professionals, students, and plant enthusiasts, the app includes over 9,400 woody plants, 72 search criteria, 7,600 beautiful, high resolution, full color photos and more than 1,120 line drawings.

As an iPhone user and major Dirr fan I am eager to get this application. In my work and personal pursuits Dirr’s Manual has been my constant go to guide, to have it on my phone and with me constantly should be a great benefit. A few months back I spoke with Timber Press about this application and asked if there would be an iPad version and was told that that was not currently in the works. A copy of this application optimized for the iPad would really work sweet in my design process and education of my clients. The iPad’s larger screen real estate would be ideal during a client presentation. That being said I am excited to get Dirr’s Manual in my pocket! As soon as I get my hands on it I’ll review it here.

Thanks to @WesternPlantPro for the heads up and @treeplanting for RT’ing.

I have often seen this mistake at the hand of the landscaper who’s only concern is to make money and not consider the future of the landscape. The initial cost of the landscape from a lowball bid contractor may seem appealing, but the eventual side effects of a poorly designed landscape will end up costing you more in the future. If you are hiring a contractor, get references, visit projects that they have designed and installed; in short do your homework.

Key to a successful landscape design is understanding the site to be landscaped. What type of soil is present? Is the soil constantly wet? What is the weather like? Does the site get sun? Is it full sun? How cold does it get in the winter? The list could go on. Take time to survey the site, if you have time to evaluate the site over time that is even better.

I did not do much to the landscape of my property for the first year after we moved into the house, but I did take time to observe how the landscape changed through the seasons. This observation has made it possible to design the landscape with an understanding of how it functions throughout the year. I was surprised to find that the north side of the property received more sun in the summer than I thought it would, encouraging me to plant an apple tree in the brightest summer sun location.

Knowledge of a  plant’s growth habit and requirements make it possible to select the right plant for the space being considered. Several factors go into proper plant selection.

• Plant Hardiness
• Plant Habit
• Water Requirements
• Soil Type
• Sun Exposure
• Design Effect – What are you trying to do? Trying to screen the view to your neighbors unsightly side yard? An evergreen will provide year round screen where a deciduous plant would not do as well for that purpose.

Understanding a plant’s limitations or its potentials will make a difference in the success of your landscape design and future maintenance. Over the next few weeks I’ll be writing about each of these factors in more detail. I’d love to hear some of the factors you consider when planting in your landscapes.

image: citta-vita

Perennial. Low growing, (4 to 6in.) spreading, succulents with rosettes of fleshy leaves in shades of crimson and green. Grown for the interesting plant appearance since flowers are inconspicuous. Used primarily in rock gardens and containers. Numerous varieties are propagated primarily by offsets. Easy to grow in full sun. Drought tolerant once established. Hardy to zone 4.

DIY Project: Making a Hen and Chicks Wreath (myflowerland.com)

Montezuma Pine, is a species of conifer that is native to Mexico and Central America, where it is commonly known as Ocote. The tree grows about 100 feet high and its canopy can reach 35-40 feet wide; occasionally it may reach a height of 130 feet.

Its rounded crown is complimented by the slightly drooping needles. The needles are born in fascicles of 5 with occasionally 4-6 and are quite irregular in thickness with some rather thick and others thin. The bark is dark brown-grayish, deeply fissured. Bark on young trees is a reddish brown rough and scaly.

The cones on this pine are also quite variable in size , usually slightly curved 4-6inches long and 3-4 inches wide when they have fully opened.

The specimen pictured in these photos is located at the Washington Park Arboretum, Seattle. (GPS: +47° 38′ 16.84″, -122° 17′ 37.19″)

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A corymb is similar to a panicle with the same branching structure, but with the lower flowers having longer stems, thus creating a flatter top.

‘Satomi’ Dogwood is a pink-flowered variety of the Korean Dogwood.

This slow growing deciduous tree has a rounded form with beautiful horizontal branching. Deep pink bracts surround inconspicuous flowers and emerge in late spring, often later than other dogwood varieties and are followed by large red fruit. Fall color is orange-red. The deep green leaves often have a purplish tinge and are resistant to anthracnose.

A soil sample can help you best determine if your soils are deficient or in excess of several essential nutrients. With that knowledge you can determine if any fertilization is necessary and exactly what you need to apply. This helps over fertilizing, one of the largest causes of water pollution. Soil samples can be used to tell if the soil is unfit for planting, due to the presence of contaminants.

Representative Sample

A soil sample must represent the area being sampled. Using a soil probe, spade or trowel, collect 10-12 samples in a random or zigzag pattern. If soil texture or sites have been treated differently (i.e. on area has been fertilized) collect a separate sample.

Sampling Depth

Depth varies according to the crop. Turfgrass samples should be taken to a depth of 3 inches; others to a depth of 6-8 inches. Discard plant material, thatch and stones. Do not sample areas that have been treated with fertilizer or lime within the last 4 weeks.

Collection

Collect Cores or slices in a clean plastic bucket and mix well. (Do not use a metal bucket) Transfer 1 to 2 cups of soil to labeled soil bags. Two cups of soil is required for nutrient and texture analysis.

Bag & Label

An approved soil sample bag must be used, most labs provide pre-printed bags. Be sure to completely fill out the entire label including city and state. Be sure to label plant and turf species on the label as well. Place soil bag in a zippered plastic bag to prevent soil spillage in transport.

Frequency of Sampling

A soil nutrient analysis should be performed on sites every 3 to 4 years or more frequently where plants are in poor health.

Shipping

Soil samples do not degrade and can be sent via mail. No need to overnight the sample.

Soil Tests Vary

Sample analysis can vary from one lab to another. Here are a few examples

• Basic soil nutrients: pH, organic matter, P, K, Ca, Mg, CEC
• Basic + Micronutrients: Basic information plus Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu
• Complete: Basic and micronutrients plus Nitrate N, Na, S, B, and soluble salts
• Soluble salts (conductivity)
• Soil Texture – % sand, silt, and clay

Special Tests

Most agriculture soil testing facilities do not routinely test for heavy metals, herbicides or other soil contaminants. Those test are specialized and can be expensive. If you suspect there could be contamination issues I would recommend asking for the special testing to be done.

Laboratories

If you are unfamiliar with a laboratory, contact your local land grant university extension agency. For those of you in the Pacific Northwest, I have done the legwork for you: