When selecting a tree “go live”. When the holidays are over it can be habitat for small mammals and birds. They provide shelter and beauty not to mention clean air. It is a green choice for sure.
There are a few important considerations when dealing with a live tree.A live tree comes with roots and therefore is heaver than a cut tree, obvious huh? Well don’t let a little extra weight get in your way. I use a wooden furniture dolly to wheel our tree around. Your local nursery will bring in live trees and often take the balled & burlapped trees and pot them up for easier handling. Some nurseries will just grow the trees in containers. Once you have chosen the perfect tree and you have brought it home you can’t just place it in the corner of the room right away. Follow these steps for best success:

• Gradually introduce your living tree from outside to inside over three or four days either in a garage or enclosed porch. This slow introduction to the interior of your home is to allow the gentle acclimation to the increased temperature of your warm home. A tree that has already gone dormant and exposed to immediate warmth has the potential to start new growth. Although this might look cool once the tree is returned to the wilds of nature the new growth will most definitely freeze.
• While the tree acclimating in the garage check for spiders, insects and insect egg masses, as well as squirrels and the occasional black bear. Remove any stowaways before bringing the tree inside.
• When choosing a location to place your tree, try and avoid a placement near a heating vent. The direct exposure to that hot air doesn’t do much for the moisture content of the needles.
• Place the tree in a large galvanized tub including root ball. (I have also used a decorative pot without a hole) This tub stabilizes the tree and ball (or pot) and confines water and needles into a more manageable and cleanable space. To keep the tree upright be sure to stabilize the root-ball with rocks or bricks.
• If you chose a balled-in-burlap tree, add mulch around the ball, this helps maintain the moisture. as often as necessary to moisten the roots but not soggy.
• Do not leave it inside longer than 7-10 days, any longer it will cause it to dry out too much.
• Reintroduction of your tree to its natural elements should be done with care. Move the tree back put to the garage for a few days and then move it outside to its final home. If you live in an area where the soil freezes dig the soil ahead of time.

Some of you may not have space to plant the tree when you are done. Realize that most trees sold as Christmas trees do grow quite large, so do your research ahead of time. Don’t plant them close to the house or beneath power lines. Planting it on the north side of the house will help protect your home from those cold winter winds. Look for other opportunities to plant the tree, consider talking to your local parks department, city properties, or garden clubs to find a home for your tree.

What should be done with yellowing tulip leaves?
These should be left in place until they’re almost completely yellow, about late June. Then use scissors and cut them to the ground. The leaves should be left on as long as they are green because they are making food for next year’s flowers. If the leaves are unsightly, you could tie them together loosely and plant annuals in between.

How should late-arriving bulbs be handled?
Plant them immediately. Do not attempt to carry them over until spring. Plant in an area where the soil is not frozen, such as near the foundation of your home. Be sure to mulch. Transplant to a permanent site, if needed, next summer. If you are anticipating a late shipment, you can mulch the prospective planting site to keep the soil from freezing until after the bulbs are planted. You can also force them indoors.

How often do you have to dig up hardy bulbs?
Dig up hardy bulbs only as often as you desire to move them to a new location, or when they are becoming crowded and/or flower production decreases.

How should I fertilize hardy bulbs?
The most important time to fertilize is right after the bulbs bloom. Use 2 pounds per 100 square feet of a commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or 12-12-12. Work fertilizer lightly into the soil surface.

How should I protect young tulip leaves from a late, hard frost?
Don’t! The leaves are usually not damaged by temporary cold and freezing temperatures.
I received a pot of blooming tulips for Easter. How should I treat them when they’re done flowering?
You can either throw them out immediately or make an effort to rebloom them outdoors again in two to three years. It is very unlikely that they will bloom again the year after you received them. If you want to save the bulbs, cut off the flower stalks after flowering and continue to water as needed until the leaves turn yellow. Then withhold water, cut leaves back and put the entire pot in a cool (50°F), dark place until August. In August, plant the bulbs separately outdoors. Be sure to fertilize.

How can I keep squirrels or moles from eating bulbs?
Bulbs are not usually a preferred food of squirrels, moles, mice or other rodents, but they can take a liking to them. Moles are often unfairly blamed when bulbs disappear. More often, the culprit is field mice that also use mole tunnels. They most often attack tulips, crocus and gladioli and rarely eat daffodils, alliums or colchicums.
The mouse problem is a difficult one. Sprinkling dried blood, tobacco or a similar repellent on the ground is effective only until the next rain washes it away. Owning a cat that enjoys walking through your flower beds is a very effective deterrent to rodents.
Where you are determined to try bulbs, make a small “cage” of 1/2-inch mesh screen. Place several bulbs inside, root plate down and bury the entire cage at the proper depth. Rodents won’t be able to chew through, but roots and stems can grow out.

Why didn’t my bulbs bloom this spring?
There are only a few reasons that bulbs do not flower. If the bulbs were planted last fall, dig down to see if they rotted in the soil. If they did, the planting site is poorly drained. If you don’t find the bulbs at all or see only withered green leaves on the ground, perhaps a rodent ate them.

If leaves appeared with no flowers, question the source and the storage technique. Bulbs purchased at an end of year sale may not have been stored properly and the flower bud may have been dead at the time of purchase. Before buying many bulbs on sale, buy one or two and cut them in half longitudinally to make sure the flower bud is alive. If it is brown or dried up, the bulbs will not flower next spring. This is a fair test of the quality of the remaining bulbs. If you stored the bulbs near apples or in a garage, ethylene gas may have caused the flowers to abort.

If the bulbs were planted in a previous fall, they may have received insufficient light or the leaves may have been cut back prematurely last year, resulting in insufficient food reserves to support flowering this year.
With some bulbs, including tulips and hyacinths, decline is expected after two to three years or even sooner. These bulbs are best treated as annuals in a display garden.

Which side of the bulb goes up at planting time?
Be sure to identify either the root plate and face it downwards, or last year’s shriveled flower stalk, which goes upwards. Compare with pictures or diagrams or dig up a bulbs to see which end is which.

When can I plant summer-flowering bulbs?
Plant after the frost-free date in your area to avoid damage to emerging shoots and rotting of tubers in cold soil. Many tender bulbs may be started indoors in spring.

Can dahlias planted in spring as bedding plants be saved at the end of the season?
Yes, you can save dahlia tubers from year to year. By the end of the season, bedding plant dahlias will have produced tubers large enough to dig in fall and save over winter for the next season.

source: University of Illinois 

Mulch

Benefits of Proper Mulching

• Helps maintain soil moisture. Evaporation is reduced, and the need for watering can be minimized.
• Helps control weeds. A 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch will reduce the germination and growth of weeds.
• Mulch serves as nature’s insulating blanket. Mulch keeps soils warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.
• Many types of mulch can improve soil aeration, structure (aggregation of soil particles), and drainage over time.
• Some mulches can improve soil fertility.
• A layer of mulch can inhibit certain plant diseases.
• Mulching around trees helps facilitate maintenance and can reduce the likelihood of damage from “weed whackers” or the dreaded “lawn mower blight.”
• Mulch can give planting beds a uniform, well-cared-for look.

Trees growing in a natural forest environment have their roots anchored in a rich, well-aerated soil full of essential nutrients. The soil is blanketed by leaves and organic materials that replenish nutrients and provide an optimal environment for root growth and mineral uptake. Urban landscapes, however, are typically a much harsher environment with poor soils, little organic matter, and large fluctuations in temperature and moisture. Applying a 2- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch can mimic a more natural environment and improve plant health.

The root system of a tree is not a mirror image of the top. The roots of most trees can extend out a significant distance from the tree trunk. Although the guideline for many maintenance practices is the drip line—the outermost extension of the canopy—the roots can grow many times that distance. In addition, most of the fine, absorbing roots are located within inches of the soil surface. These roots, which are essential for taking up water and minerals, require oxygen to survive. A thin layer of mulch, applied as broadly as practical, can improve the soil structure, oxygen levels, temperature, and moisture availability where these roots grow.

Types of Mulch

Mulches are available commercially in many forms. The two major types of mulch are inorganic and organic. Inorganic mulches include various types of stone, lava rock, pulverized rubber, geotextile fabrics, and other materials. Inorganic mulches do not decompose and do not need to be replenished often. On the other hand, they do not improve soil structure, add organic materials, or provide nutrients. For these reasons, most horticulturists and arborists prefer organic mulches.

Organic mulches include wood chips, pine needles, hardwood and softwood bark, cocoa hulls, leaves, compost mixes, and a variety of other products usually derived from plants. Organic mulches decompose in the landscape at different rates depending on the material and climate. Those that decompose faster must be replenished more often. Because the decomposition process improves soil quality and fertility, many arborists and other landscape professionals consider that characteristic a positive one, despite the added maintenance.

Not Too Much!

As beneficial as mulch is, too much can be harmful. The generally recommended mulching depth is 2 to 4 inches. Unfortunately, many landscapes are falling victim to a plague of overmulching. A new term, “mulch volcanoes,” has emerged to describe mulch that has been piled up around the base of trees. Most organic mulches must be replenished, but the rate of decomposition varies. Some mulches, such as cypress mulch, remain intact for many years. Top dressing with new mulch annually (often for the sake of refreshing the color) creates a buildup to depths that can be unhealthy. Deep mulch can be effective in suppressing weeds and reducing maintenance, but it often causes additional problems.

Problems Associated with Improper Mulching

• Deep mulch can lead to excess moisture in the root zone, which can stress the plant and cause root rot.
• Piling mulch against the trunk or stems of plants can stress stem tissues and may lead to insect and disease problems.
• Some mulches, especially those containing cut grass, can affect soil pH. Continued use of certain mulches over long periods can lead to micronutrient deficiencies or toxicities.
• Mulch piled high against the trunks of young trees may create habitats for rodents that chew the bark and can girdle the trees.
• Thick blankets of fine mulch can become matted and may prevent the penetration of water and air. In addition, a thick layer of fine mulch can become like potting soil and may support weed growth.
• Anaerobic “sour” mulch may give off pungent odors, and the alcohols and organic acids that build up may be toxic to young plants.

Proper Mulching

It is clear that the choice of mulch and the method of application can be important to the health of landscape plants. The following are some guidelines to use when applying mulch.

• Inspect plants and soil in the area to be mulched. Determine whether drainage is adequate. Determine whether there are plants that may be affected by the choice of mulch. Most commonly available mulches work well in most landscapes. Some plants may benefit from the use of a slightly acidifying mulch such as pine bark.
• If mulch is already present, check the depth. Do not add mulch if there is a sufficient layer in place. Rake the old mulch to break up any matted layers and to refresh the appearance. Some landscape maintenance companies spray mulch with a water-soluble, vegetable-based dye to improve the appearance.
• If mulch is piled against the stems or tree trunks, pull it back several inches so that the base of the trunk and the root crown are exposed.
• Organic mulches usually are preferred to inorganic materials due to their soil-enhancing properties. If organic mulch is used, it should be well aerated and, preferably, composted. Avoid sour-smelling mulch.
• Composted wood chips can make good mulch, especially when they contain a blend of leaves, bark, and wood. Fresh wood chips also may be used around established trees and shrubs. Avoid using noncomposted wood chips that have been piled deeply without exposure to oxygen.
• For well-drained sites, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch. If there are drainage problems, a thinner layer should be used. Avoid placing mulch against the tree trunks. Place mulch out to the tree’s drip line or beyond.

Proper Mulching Techniques

Remember: If the tree had a say in the matter, its entire root system (which usually extends well beyond the drip line) would be mulched.

The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is during the dormant season—in the fall after leaf drop or early spring before budbreak. Weather conditions are cool and allow plants to establish roots in the new location before spring rains and summer heat stimulate new top growth. However, trees properly cared for in the nursery or garden center, and given the appropriate care during transport to prevent damage, can be planted throughout the growing season. In either situation, proper handling during planting is essential to ensure a healthy future for new trees and shrubs. Before you begin planting your tree, be sure you have had all underground utilities located prior to digging.Whether the tree you are planting is balled and burlapped or is bare root, it is important to understand that its root system has been reduced by 90 to 95 percent of its original size during transplanting. As a result of the trauma caused by the digging process, trees commonly exhibit what is known as transplant shock. Transplant shock is indicated by slow growth and reduced vigor following transplanting. Proper site preparation before and during planting coupled with good follow-up care reduces the amount of time the plant experiences transplant shock and allows the tree to quickly establish in its new location. Carefully follow eight simple steps, and you can significantly reduce the stress placed on the plant at the time of planting.

1. Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Make the hole wide, as much as three times the diameter of the root ball but only as deep as the root ball. It is important to make the hole wide because the roots on the newly establishing tree must push through surrounding soil in order to establish. On most planting sites in new developments, the existing soils have been compacted and are unsuitable for healthy root growth. Breaking up the soil in a large area around the tree provides the newly emerging roots room to expand into loose soil to hasten establishment.

2. Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted (see diagram). If the trunk flare is not partially visible, you may have to remove some soil from the top of the root ball. Find it so you can determine how deep the hole needs to be for proper planting.

3. Place the tree at the proper height. Before placing the tree in the hole, check to see that the hole has been dug to the proper depth—and no more. The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. If the tree is planted too deeply, new roots will have difficulty developing because of a lack of oxygen. It is better to plant the tree a little high, 2 to 3 inches above the base of the trunk flare, than to plant it at or below the original growing level. This planting level will allow for some settling (see diagram). To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole, always lift the tree by the root ball and never by the trunk.

4. Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm that the tree is straight. Once you begin backfilling, it is difficult to reposition the tree.

5. Fill the hole gently but firmly. Fill the hole about one-third full and gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of the root ball. Then, if the tree is balled and burlapped, cut and remove the string and wire from around the trunk and top third of the root ball (see diagram). Be careful not to damage the trunk or roots in the process.

6. Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause roots to dry out. To avoid this problem, add the soil a few inches at a time and settle with water. Continue this process until the hole is filled and the tree is firmly planted. It is not recommended to apply fertilizer at the time of planting.

7. Stake the tree, if necessary. If the tree is grown and dug properly at the nursery, staking for support will not be necessary in most home landscape situations. Studies have shown that trees establish more quickly and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting. However, protective staking may be required on sites where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy conditions are concerns. If staking is necessary for support, there are three methods to choose among: staking, guying, and ball stabilizing. One of the most common methods is staking. With this method, two stakes used in conjunction with a wide, flexible tie material will hold the tree upright, provide flexibility, and minimize injury to the trunk (see diagram). Remove support staking and ties after the first year of growth.

8. Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch is simply organic matter applied to the area at the base of the tree. It acts as a blanket to hold moisture, it moderates soil temperature extremes (both hot and cold), and it reduces competition from grass and weeds. Some good choices are leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or wood chips. A 2- to 4-inch layer is ideal. More than 4 inches may cause a problem with oxygen and moisture levels. When placing mulch, be sure that the actual trunk of the tree is not covered. Doing so may cause decay of the living bark at the base of the tree. A mulch-free area, 1 to 2 inches wide at the base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and prevent decay.

9. Provide follow-up care. Keep the soil moist but not soaked; overwatering causes leaves to turn yellow or fall off. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot weather. When the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. Continue until mid-fall, tapering off for lower temperatures that require less-frequent watering.

Other follow-up care may include minor pruning of branches damaged during the planting process. Prune sparingly immediately after planting and wait to begin necessary corrective pruning until after a full season of growth in the new location.

source: isa-arbor.com

After choosing and planting your desired variety of bamboo, whether it be a clump form or a running variety the maintenance is essentially the same. Do nothing for the first three years. After the initial establishment stage remove the three year old and older canes at the ground.Take care to over thin the plant as it creates its own shade for optimal growth. Care should also be given to hedging bamboo. Remove the tops to create the hedge at a desired height. Do not remove all the foliage from a cane you don’t intend to remove as it will most likely die.

To maintain a running variety prune out the canes along the edges of the grove. (A mower will help maintain new growth.) Consider using a barrier. A metal, concrete or other impenetrable material buried 20-24” into the soil will aid in localized containment of bamboo.

Your greatest benefit from maintaining you bamboo is all the new bamboo stakes you will get! The uses for this bamboo is only limited to your imagination. Stakes, trellises, and even fencing. My kids love playing in the bamboo, a regular backyard jungle!