How to Collect a Soil Sample

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

A soil sample can help you best determine if your soils are deficient or in excess of several essential nutrients. With that knowledge you can determine if any fertilization is necessary and exactly what you need to apply. This helps over fertilizing, one of the largest causes of water pollution. Soil samples can be used to tell if the soil is unfit for planting, due to the presence of contaminants.

Representative Sample

A soil sample must represent the area being sampled. Using a soil probe, spade or trowel, collect 10-12 samples in a random or zigzag pattern. If soil texture or sites have been treated differently (i.e. on area has been fertilized) collect a separate sample.

Sampling Depth

Depth varies according to the crop. Turfgrass samples should be taken to a depth of 3 inches; others to a depth of 6-8 inches. Discard plant material, thatch and stones. Do not sample areas that have been treated with fertilizer or lime within the last 4 weeks.

Collection

Collect Cores or slices in a clean plastic bucket and mix well. (Do not use a metal bucket) Transfer 1 to 2 cups of soil to labeled soil bags. Two cups of soil is required for nutrient and texture analysis.

Bag & Label

An approved soil sample bag must be used, most labs provide pre-printed bags. Be sure to completely fill out the entire label including city and state. Be sure to label plant and turf species on the label as well. Place soil bag in a zippered plastic bag to prevent soil spillage in transport.

Frequency of Sampling

A soil nutrient analysis should be performed on sites every 3 to 4 years or more frequently where plants are in poor health.

Shipping

Soil samples do not degrade and can be sent via mail. No need to overnight the sample.

Soil Tests Vary

Sample analysis can vary from one lab to another. Here are a few examples

• Basic soil nutrients: pH, organic matter, P, K, Ca, Mg, CEC
• Basic + Micronutrients: Basic information plus Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu
• Complete: Basic and micronutrients plus Nitrate N, Na, S, B, and soluble salts
• Soluble salts (conductivity)
• Soil Texture – % sand, silt, and clay

Special Tests

Most agriculture soil testing facilities do not routinely test for heavy metals, herbicides or other soil contaminants. Those test are specialized and can be expensive. If you suspect there could be contamination issues I would recommend asking for the special testing to be done.
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Tall Stewartia (Stewartia monadelpha)

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

Stewartia monodelpha known commonly as Tall Stewartia or Orangebark Stewartia is a slow growing deciduous tree hardy in zones 6-8. Reaching a mature height of 20 to 25 feet and a spread of 15-25 feed this tree develops a rather symmetrical pyramidal crown in its youth developing into a vase shaped outline as it matures. (more…)

Planting Bare Root Trees and Shrubs

Posted on Jan 29, 2008

Step-by-Step Process:

• Keep roots of bare root trees and shrubs moist and protected at all times prior to planting. Prepare planting hole for each plant before removing it from it’s protected, moist site.

• Using a spade or other means of digging, prepare a hole that is large enough to spread the roots without crowding. Rough the sides of the hole to be sure they are not glazed from digging, which would form a barrier for water and roots.

• Inspect the roots of the plant. Prune away any broken or damaged roots.

• Place the roots in the hole at a level so that the soil surface will be at the same level where the plant was previously growing, as indicated by the slightly darker area of the trunk. Trees should be planted so that the graft or trunk flare is 1″ above the final soil surface. It often helps to form a mound or “cone” of soil on the bottom of the hole and spread the roots over the mound.

• Backfill the soil into the hole a few inches at a time, firming the soil after each addition. While backfilling, be sure the plant remains vertical and be careful not to damage roots. Use water to settle the soil around the roots while backfilling.

• After backfilling is complete, form a ridge of soil around the edge of the hole to puddle and hold water around the plant.

• Thoroughly water the plant. Keep well watered until established. Mulching with wood chips or shredded bark helps retain moisture. Keep mulch 1-2 inches away from the plant’s trunk to prevent damage from moisture. Do not over water. Allow the soil surface to dry to a depth of 1-2″ between waterings.
• Shrubs do not usually need to be staked, however trees that require staking should be monitored and the staking material should be removed as soon as possible. No need to leave a tree staked for more than growing season.

• In areas with cold winters, protect young, smooth-barked trees from sunscald by wrapping the trunks. This practice also protects young trees from rodent and rabbit damage.